The Story Behind the Stone: Reading between the lines
by Diana Jarrett GG, RMV
February 14, 2022
Diamonds: Their History, Sources, Qualities & Benefits. Photo courtesy Renee Newman.
"Books created especially for the jewelry trade often become part of a permanent library. That’s because so much information remains relevant forever. But what happens when authors write new books on a topic they’ve already covered?
The Diamond Story in Stages
Recently, I sat down for a catch-up chat with well-known gemstone author Renee Newman.
Her latest release, Diamonds: Their History, Sources, Qualities and Benefits is a massive tome devoted to the beloved sparkler. But what else can be said since she’s already written on the subject? Her first diamond book released in 1989 was The Diamond Ring Buying Guide: How to Spot Value and Avoid Ripoffs. It was ahead of its time for providing straightforward information in everyday language without speaking down to the non-pro.
Newman explains its content. “It showed via photos how to judge clarity, cut, quality and jewelry craftsmanship and how to identify diamond shapes, cutting styles, setting styles and imitations. It also provided practical tips on caring for diamond jewelry and selecting jewelry metals, mountings, and jewelers.”
Apparently, she was on to something. Within seven months of its launch, 5,000 copies were sold, with about 2,000 of those headed to libraries. The book has since been reprinted many times, including an 8th Edition released in 2020.
Staying on Topic
Newman is an industry pillar with her no-nonsense writing. Her specific-subject books like Ruby, Sapphire & Emerald, or Pearl Buying Guide for instance, take readers on an immersive dive into their favorite topics. Other books she’s written spotlight gemstone categories like Exotic Gems or Rare Gemstones.
After her first book, The Diamond Ring Buying Guide, she tackled the topic again in a later volume, Diamond Handbook: A Practical Guide to Diamond Evaluation, published in 2005. So now, what can possibly be added to that conversation that’s not already been covered?
Previously unpublished Padma Cut Cushion by Dharmanandan Diamonds. Photo © Dharmanandan Diamonds Pvt. Ltd.
Newman explains that her audience has expanded over the years, and importantly, she needed to address new developments within the diamond trade. “The first edition of Diamond Ring Buying Guide was written primarily for the general public who were looking for unbiased information on how to judge diamond and jewelry quality.” But it turns out her book became essential to the trade as well. “Afterwards, I learned my book was also being used for sales training since it helped salespeople explain diamond quality to customers in an easy-to-understand way.”
Prods to keep producing came from within our industry. “Appraisers, diamond dealers, and jewelers were also reading my book for their own information. When they asked me to write a more advanced book about diamonds, I produced the Diamond Handbook in 2005.”
Readers who bought the first book gleaned new and more in-depth info from her second release. “Diamond Handbook included information about the new GIA and AGS cut grading systems, antique cuts and jewelry, appraisals, branded diamonds, recutting plus more advanced information on diamond treatments and man-made diamonds.”
Learning Something New Every Day
Researching diamonds became the ideal situation for her to discover more too. A standout learning moment for Newman occurred in an exchange she had with Jack Abraham of Precious Gem Resources, Inc. in New York. “He told me that I had left out the concept of texture in my Ruby & Sapphire Buying Guide. Texture is a term used on American Gem Laboratories’ (AGL) colored gem grading reports to indicate the degree to which the passage of light is interrupted in gems by fine particles.” That of course, is an insider’s terminology. The general public could better understand the word transparency. A common trade expression referring to texture is low transparency. This characteristic “can sometimes reduce gem prices from several hundred or thousands of dollars per carat to less than $10 per ct. Its greatest impact is with gems like diamond, ruby, sapphire and emerald,” she points out. “As a result, I added a section on judging transparency in my future gem books including those on diamonds.” But to be clear she says, “transparency is not the same as clarity. A diamond can have a VS or SI clarity grade, and yet be hazy or cloudy.” Good to know.
She could be forgiven for thinking enough is enough on the diamond subject. But her ongoing research into the topic keeps fueling her fascination with diamonds. “Besides being brighter than any other natural gem because of its superior hardness, adamantine luster, lack of color and high refractive index, diamonds are also nontoxic.” And while we often rhapsodize over opulent diamond jewelry, there’s another compelling aspect to diamonds. “They’re invaluable for the electronics industries since they are excellent heat conductors, electrical insulators and semiconductors.” Sounds like something for another book, doesn’t it?
The Age of Information
Since she first dug her heels into diamond research some 30-odd years ago, a lot has changed in our world, including how we acquire knowledge about anything at all. Public access to information through the internet has allowed people to do their own sleuthing on diamonds or anything else they’re keen on. “Sometimes the public is more knowledgeable than diamond salespeople because of research they’ve done on the Internet and from books and magazines.”
What would she say is her impetus for writing this latest book? “It satisfies the need for an updated general diamond book, providing the latest information on geographic sources, mining, cutting, diamond jewelry styles, diamond evaluation and lab-grown diamonds.” But she underscores, it’s definitely not a dry scholastic dissertation. “It’s a fun large-format volume loaded with high-quality photos and stories while also providing basic technical information like diamond chemical composition and structure, diamond type classification, causes of diamond color, crystal shapes, and more.”
Nothing Old, Something New
Diamond fans will be glad to discover it’s not simply a mashup of previously published content.
“A high percentage of the jewelry images, diagrams, mining timelines and maps are different,” she reports. “The information and photos about unusual diamond cuts such as portrait cuts, slice cuts and circular brilliant cuts have not appeared in other books.”
Undertaking this new book provided Newman with periods of reflection on how diamond consumers have evolved through the decades. “I’ve seen their enthusiasm grow as diamond choices have grown. Colored diamonds are much more widely available now.” She believes the public has developed more sophisticated tastes about diamonds because of these expanded options. “Many new generic and branded cuts have been introduced to the market and old cuts are now in vogue too.”
One of the more exciting developments today is a robust appetite for naturally colored diamonds. It’s evidenced by staggering sales prices of colored diamonds at auction. “Publicity from record auction sales and the increased availability of naturally colored diamonds have increased demand for them, “she notes. Newman finds these colorful stones to be the muse of jewelry artists. “Designers love to use colored diamonds for creating unique jewelry. My latest book shows how jewelry artist Paula Crevoshay has taken advantage of the more readily available yellow, brown, black, gray, and white diamonds to paint portraits of animals like tigers, wolves and giraffes on her jewelry using diamonds. The book also shows extremely rare orange, red, pink, green and blue diamonds.”
Diamonds: Their History, Sources, Qualities and Benefits is available ... "
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