My Favorite Jewels From The 2023 VicenzaOro September Show
By Melissa Rose Bernardo | September 21, 2023
"It’s a little more than a week since I returned from the VicenzaOro show in Vicenza, Italy. I’m finally over my jet lag, but I’m still thinking about some of the amazing jewels that I saw there. There are simply too many to share (I have even more to post on Instagram!), but I’d be remiss if I didn’t tell you about a few of the beauties that I got to view close-up at the fair.
Flora and fauna–inspired jewelry was a major trend coming out of Vegas, and it’s what designer Pamela Hastry does best. Morphée Joaillerie is bursting with blossoms of all colors, shapes, and sizes. And just try to resist this little guy: the Tiny Hugger ring, made of tsavorite, sapphires, and 18k gold. It wraps around the finger perfectly.
Speaking of flora … I’d never met Hong Kong–based designer Vitoria Wu, nor did I know her brand, Osi Vitoria, and I was thrilled when I saw her booth in the Design Room in Hall 7. This Spring Swallow brooch, she told us, took well over a year to create, using 18k gold, diamonds, enamel, colored sapphires, and, in the center, a 5.75 ct. Burmese red spinel.
Spending time with Alessio Boschi is always a pleasure—his jewelry is incredible, of course, but the designer is a delight. And I could have spent all day listening to him talk about his new Seven Princesses collection. His jewels always contain some sort of surprise or hidden detail, and these Royal Palace purple sapphire earrings are no exception: They transform into multiple earrings of assorted sizes, plus a pendant.
I’m a sucker for rose-cut diamonds, and looking at pieces from Harakh—such as these dazzling Cluster earrings—it seems that fourth-generation diamantaire Harakh Mehta is as well. His mixed-cut styles are also incredible as well. Plus, all the diamonds he uses are D-E-F colors.
I have never considered myself a yellow diamond person, but this 7.03 ct. fancy yellow oval beauty from Picchiotti could get me to change my mind. (The 5.58 cts. of surrounding white baguettes don’t hurt either.) Plus, it’s part of the brand’s trademark Xpandable collection, which means it will always fit your finger—whether it’s swollen from humidity in the summer or if, say, you’ve recently taken an eight-hour flight. Brilliant.
When you’re at VicenzaOro, you need to go for gold, right? These are just two pieces from the Guitar collection by Italian brand Peruffo; the entire collection is sexy and luxe and slinky and ’70s in the best possible way. All the pieces move, and you just want to keep touching them.
I saw quite a few brands using titanium, and was immediately drawn to these designs from Roberto Coin’s Venetian Princess collection. The colors are elegant and unique, and the pieces won’t break the bank: ... "
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