Trend report: Yellow gold resurgence
April 12, 2024
By Maria Carola Picchiotti
PICCHIOTTI Easy Wear gold link necklace with diamonds (15.49 carats). Photos courtesy PICCHIOTTI
"Fashion trends tend to swing along a pendulum, ranging from one extreme to another every few decades. With the recent resurgence of ‘70s and ‘80s inspired looks, in everything from hairdos to fashion to pop culture, it is no surprise that the pendulum has swung back to yellow gold. Even in the bridal market, where white metals have always been popular, there is an uptick in demand for yellow gold rings. This yellow gold renaissance feels joyful and celebratory, as the post-pandemic world continues to prioritize feel-good fashion, maximalism, and colour. Let’s look at the specific categories of yellow gold that retailers should be investing in now.
Choker-length gold necklaces
Valentino Spring/Summer 2022. Photos courtesy Padulo Privé, Getty Images
In the summer of 2022, Telegraph’s “Why big gold jewellery is back” cited “chunky maximalist” pieces spotted on runways in New York, Paris, London, and Milan, and celebrity red carpets—worn by the likes of Rihanna.1 Bold short necklaces have since made their way through runway fashion.
The trend appears to have started with big, bold pearls in 2020 and, by 2022, the look broadened to include gold. Trend-setting design houses like Fendi, Balmain, Versace, Jonathan Simkhai, and Lanvin all featured gold choker necklaces in their shows that year. Instead of pearls, Simkhai highlighted large gold beads in a short necklace, reminiscent of a strand of pearls. Valentino’s included a large curb link choker necklace with several Spring/Summer 2022 (SS22) runway looks. Fendi also accessorized their SS22 fashions with a high gold open link chain necklace, while Versace opted for a more sculptural solid gold look—a statement necklace of large gold squares that lie flat against the collar bone.
With the revival of colour in the post-pandemic “dopamine dressing” trend (which reached its peak in the summer of 2022), yellow gold made for a more complimentary accessory. The vibrant, rich colours of the last few seasons call for the luxurious warmth of yellow gold. The earthy oranges and floral fabrics that prevailed in 2022 are perfectly adorned with gold. And who could imagine any other metal decorating the crimson reds and sunset ombre hues trending in 2023?
Jewellery historian, author, and journalist Marion Fasel says, choker necklace are “on the horizon of hotness.” According to Fasel, chokers are like a clean slate, offering a polished look on or at the bottom of the neck.2 InStyle also positioned short, thick gold chains as a top summer 2023 jewellery trend.3
At PICCHIOTTI, we love the “easy wear” style of a distinctive gold chain necklace. Easy to wear because gold goes with everything and dresses up any ensemble, whether it be a sweater and jeans, or a classic tailored business suit. Choker lengths add a lot of volume near the face, making them perfect for almost any neckline and adding a sense of elegance and sophistication atop dresses or casual outfits. Versatile choker options are also popular—having various lengths in one necklace creates more options. Some gold chains can be wrapped for a layered look or clasped at various places along their length. Magnetic clasps can also be added to designs, allowing a bracelet and short necklace to be clasped together for a longer length.
Bold gold wrists: Cuffs or stacks
PICCHIOTTI Xpandable 18K Gold bracelet with baguette (8.90 carats) and round diamonds (4.01 carats).
Chunky yellow gold has been a prominent wrist style of late—with bold, thick gold cuffs seen on the Fall/Winter 2023 (FW23) runways at Balmain, Tory Burch, and more. Stacks of chunky gold and mixed metals bangles are also popular. No longer reserved for one wrist or the other, current wrist accessories are worn on both arms in a Wonder Woman style, as a nod to female empowerment. Harper’s Bazaar proclaimed “arm cuffs like Cleopatra” as a primary FW23 trend for every woman’s wardrobe.4
Saint Laurent has featured bold bracelets in three seasons of its ready to wear collection (Fall/Winter 2022, SS23, and FW23)—placing cuffs on both arms, or stacking gold and mixed metal bangles with dresses, wide shouldered suits, and leather jackets. Their Spring/Summer 2024 collection pairs gloves with gold bracelets, positioning them either outside the glove or high on the arm above them.
Bold yellow gold wrist statements have also appeared on recent Chloé, Jil Sander, and Elie Saab runways. Chloé opted for a single cuff, while Sander and Saab wrapped both arms in gold.
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The current trend of wearing cuffs or stacks on both arms makes the collecting and styling process fun for customers. Direct your clients towards bracelet additions, noting the fashion relevance of stacking or wearing on both arms. For luxury or smart watch owners, many styles of bangles and cuffs also pair well with watches. Offer to let the customer try items on in the store—to ensure a new bangle or cuff would be comfortable with their everyday watch. You could also suggest that they wear the watch on one arm and one or more bracelets on the other.
Fashion designers have also shattered old jewellery rules and inspired a revitalized interest in mixed metals. As seen on the runways and red carpets of late, mixing white and yellow metals is now completely acceptable. Given the prevalence of such mixed metals in modern jewellery collections, bangles, cuffs, and stackable bracelets no longer need to be limited to singularly gold designs. Colour offers great gifting options, too.
Help your clients experiment with a variety of colourful bracelets or wide cuffs. For example, they might choose to select a coloured gemstone—perhaps a birthstone or a gemstone that matches their eyes.
For more conservative customers, black and gold hold a timeless appeal. At PICCHIOTTI, we have seen a particularly strong demand for styles that blend black ceramic, gold, and white diamonds.
Chunky gold earrings
Jason Wu Fall/Winter 2022-23.
Large gold earrings, especially hoops, proved to be a popular FW23 runway sensation. Customers scrabbled to buy Bottega Veneta’s FW23 runway style earring, clearing all stock in response to a viral paparazzi photo of Kendall Jenner sporting a pair.
Who What Wear says, “If there is one jewellery piece to buy for Fall 2023, it is the chunky earring. Hot on the heels of the viral Bottega Veneta drop earrings that continue to be sold out everywhere and found in the wardrobes of celebrities such as Bella Hadid and Kendall Jenner, we’re seeing a rising appetite for outfit-finishing statement earrings.”5 Women’s Wear Daily concurred, “They say the bigger the better—and when it comes to recent earring trends, this theory holds true.”6
Chunky gold hoops, in particular, were also seen on the catwalks of Paul Costello, Gucci, and Jason Wu. The classic hoop is proof that some things just never go out of style.
PICCHIOTTI reversible gold and diamond (4.11 carats) earrings in 18K yellow and white gold.
Bridal
PICCHIOTTI Xpandable bridal ring in 18K yellow and white gold. Featuring emerald cut yellow diamonds (7.12 carats) and a centre emerald cut white diamond (1.51 carats).
The bridal industry has been consistent in its preference for white metals for quite some time now. The tide is turning though, as younger generations join the gold renaissance. Based on retailer feedback, Business Insider says, “Yellow gold is the winning metal colour for engagement rings” in 2024. This trend is driven by the recent uptick in yellow gold celebrity engagement rings, like those worn by Lily Collins, Katy Perry, and Hailey Bieber.7
Brides points to the resurgence of gold in fashion as the impetus behind the bridal trend, “Yellow gold engagement rings are having a renaissance of sorts from shiny styles to matte finishes—likely a result of gold jewellery trending in the market.”8
Contemporary brides are also more comfortable mixing metals. Many choose yellow gold for their engagement rings and wedding bands without any obligation towards the metals of day-to-day accessories.
At PICCHIOTTI, we have definitely seen a rising demand for engagement rings, wedding bands, and anniversary bands set in yellow gold. Another notable warming trend is the rise in fancy yellow diamond engagement rings, as opposed to traditional white diamonds.
Gold lovers can celebrate the return of the warm, beautiful sheen of yellow gold. For everyone, it is clearly time to update the jewellery wardrobe with yellow gold staples. Be sure to offer your customers a nice assortment of gold jewellery—short chains, chunky earrings, hoops, statement cuffs, stacks of bangles, engagement rings, and wedding bands.
References
1 https://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/sty ... -can-pull/
2 https://thecoutureshow.com/stories/tren ... ker-ed-up/
3 https://www.instyle.com/summer-2023-jew ... ds-7509621
4 https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/t ... ry-trends/
5 https://www.whowhatwear.com/bottega-ven ... p-earrings
6 https://wwd.com/shop/shop-fashion/best- ... 235746328/
7 https://www.insider.com/engagement-ring ... rs-2023-11
8 https://www.brides.com/gallery/yellow-g ... ment-rings
As part of the second generation of Picchiottis, Maria Carola directs marketing and communications. Maria Carola has recently launched a new website for the esteemed heritage brand (www.picchiotti.com), including a B2B business portal for communication and file sharing with retail partners. In addition, she has launched a new luxury blog... "
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