JB Jones on Contemporary Jewelry: Pearls Rising!

[PinkDiamond]

I had high hopes for this one when I saw the intro in The Zing Report, but then I clicked through and had one disappointment after the other as I scrolled through them. The ear cuff in the lead pic is absurd-looking to me, and I can't imagine wearing it because I know my hair would get so tangled in it I'd be lucky to not have to cut the thing out to get rid of it. The second one is the most normal looking piece and I did get a kick out of the smiley faces on the metal discs, but overall it does nothing for me. The bracelet in the next shot with the humongous pearls would be my favorite if the pearls weren't supersized since they look clunky, and must be annoying to wear, and I don't think either of the earrings that follow will appeal to many of you, if any. The bracelet with the 'pierced' pearls is alright, but I wouldn't buy it; and it doesn't seem very smart to call the 'inclusion' rings stackable, since the gold can easily scratch the soft pearls that rub against the other rings; and finally, the pearls they sawed in half in the last necklace look awful and make the piece look unappealing to my eye, so I found them all to be disappointing and wonder if they strike you the same way or if you would invest good money in them and wear them.

JB Jones on Contemporary Jewelry: Pearls Rising!
JB Jones
June 1, 2023



"It’s gonna be a Hot Pearl Summer!

Pearls have been a rising star in jewelry for years now. Evidence: the pearl necklace has become a wildly popular look for all (nearly every young male celebrity has worn a strand in the past year). Pearl rings are a top trend in bridal and in everyday fine jewelry. And chunky, amorphous-shaped baroque pearls refuse to leave the spotlight.

So it comes as no surprise that pearls are also having a moment in the contemporary jewelry scene. Here are my top pearl picks in that market.



Chloe Valorso, a self-annointed “Spirit Jeweler,” specializes in hand-wrought animal jewels (wolves, snakes, spiders!) and beaded necklaces featuring smiley faces. The above necklace, featuring lines of pearls, is one of her newer styles.




Pearl Octopuss.y is a fashion brand with a contemporary bent. Based in Oslo, much of the brand’s work forays into the experimental in terms of scale, material and functionality. The Fat Diamond Snake (above, in both photos) can be worn in multiple ways, and is the perfect oversized pearl accessory.



Sarah Madeleine Bru’s pearl work includes one-offs inspired by her work as a sculptor—truly, her vision is art-inspired.



When experimental Estonian jewelry artist Claudia Lepik gets her hands on pearls, you know it’s going to be interesting. Shown here are an earring and ear cuff made by Lepik in collaboration with 2WO+1NE.




Both a jeweler and a medical doctor, Amsterdam-based Olga Van Doorn believes finding beauty in life is a necessity. This viewpoint unfurls in her intricate, organic wearable works of art. Shown at top is the striking Berries on a Small Branches earpiece and above are the stacking Inclusion Rings featuring pearls set in 24k gold.



Claimed by both the fine jewelry and the contemporary jewelry worlds, Melanie Georgacopoulos is a visionary in both. Since 2010, she’s been redefining how pearls and Mother of Pearl are used in jewelry. Her often-illusionary work is breathtaking. Above, see her sliced pearl necklace created for ... "

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