2022 Fall Fashion Preview: Our Annual Roundup Of Runway-Ready Looks

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2022 Fall Fashion Preview: Our Annual Roundup Of Runway-Ready Looks

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If you're like me and think the fashions stink :lol: , there's hope because the jewelry is great, and there are a lot of items to see so check this out since it's so extensive I'm only going to post the first part of it here. :)

2022 Fall Fashion Preview: Our Annual Roundup Of Runway-Ready Looks
August 1, 2022 by Venessa Lau

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"A fashion show in a snow globe… On paper, the premise conjures up a wondrous and charming scene. The pang of nostalgic delight is almost Pavlovian, evoking the holidays, Mary Poppins, childhood, music-box melodies, and all that. But the glassed-in spectacle Demna gave us at Balenciaga? It clutched at the heart, terrifyingly, with a viselike grip.

The models pushed against a whirling vortex of fake snow, struggling into the wind. Some wore nothing more than shorts and a towel; others carried leather totes patterned after trash bags. Most were just blurry silhouettes. The effect was unsettling, tense. We’ll cut to the chase: Russia had just invaded Ukraine. You couldn’t help but connect the proverbial dots.

Fashions, trends, suits, and sequins versus broken families and fleeing refugees—how do you reconcile the two? That was the question that hung over the fall 2022 collections. In the initial days, the industry response—or nonresponse—was jarring. At Prada, a handful of protesters holding the Ukrainian flag stood outside the venue—outnumbered by the usual gawkers and street-style hordes. Social feeds were a schizophrenic mix of agony and adulation. Giorgio Armani was the first major designer to acknowledge the dissonance and held his show in silence—three days after the attacks began.

In Paris, runways planned months in advance were suddenly cast in a new light. Take the armorlike motifs at Balmain. Or Nicolas Ghesquière talking about freedom in a Louis Vuitton collection inspired by adolescence. Or that Balenciaga show in a snow globe, which was initially a musing on climate change. Demna, who had escaped his native Georgia when Russia invaded in the early ’90s, said he considered calling everything off. “But then I realized that canceling,” he wrote in the show notes, “would mean giving in, surrendering to the evil that has already hurt me so much for almost 30 years.” Instead, he dedicated the event to fearlessness, resistance, love, and peace.

I thought back to a note left on the chairs at Proenza Schouler in New York City, weeks before the world was upended. It included a short story by Ottessa Moshfegh, and one line stood out now: “How do we find beauty in the chaos and use it as a creative starting point to build the future?” She titled the piece “Where Will We Go Next?”

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A Fine Line

It was a strangely quiet show season, even before the shadow of war loomed large. Don’t forget that, a month before its start, the omicron variant of the coronavirus was toppling expectations of a full-speed-ahead return to life. The riotous good time would just have to wait a little longer. That’s not to say less-is-more translates to less allure. In fact, one of the most refreshing trends to appear was a turn toward elegant restraint, the equivalent of a whisper that stirs the senses more than a shout.

Consider the thin, elongated earrings at Sportmax and Roksanda, or the gently suspended pearl drops seen at Erdem. Even showmen Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana leaned into the graceful, linear motif with a simple baguette-and-pearl necklace—paired with a sheer gown with linebacker shoulders, no less. Ditto Christian Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri, who had a single strand of pearls hanging from a slim choker, and Delfina Delettrez’s superfine designs at Fendi (F-shape ear climbers, negligee necklaces) that underscored the collection’s airy, delicate vibe (gossamer dresses, lingerie details). Our favorite? The preview we caught of the upcoming Sacai and Cartier collaboration: Designer Chitose Abe deconstructed the latter’s Trinity series into a minimalist study of curves, contours, and lines.

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Triple Pearl Scarpa earrings with diamonds in recycled 14k yellow gold; $565 each (sold as single); White/Space; info@whitespacejewelry.com; whitespacejewelry.com

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Two in One Contrariè ring in 18k responsibly sourced gold with diamonds; €2,000 ($2,209); Delfina Delettrez; info@delfinadelettrez.com; delfinadelettrez.com

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Privé one-of-a-kind akoya pearl and black inverted full-cut diamond earrings; $12,900; Mizuki; hello@mizukijewels.com; mizukijewels.com

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Rhyme Major earrings with 8 mm white South Sea pearls and diamonds in 18k gold; $7,800; State Property; team@thisisstateproperty.com; thisisstateproperty.com

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Square Leaf necklace with South Sea and akoya pearls in 18k yellow gold; price on request; M/G Tasaki; info@melaniegeorgacopoulos.com; melaniegeorgacopoulos.com

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Rick Owens (photo: Imaxtree)

Metal Power

Less-is-more marked another of fall 2022’s major motifs: sleek and streamlined metal. It was the defining trend of the season, seen throughout the show circuit in New York, London, Milan, and Paris.

Surprisingly—and happily—for such a reductive trend, we got a fantastic range of looks: from futuristic (massive angular cuffs at Rick Owens) to spare (Jil Sander’s hoops and disk earrings; the armbands at Koché) to artful (Stella McCartney’s open-collar necklaces in a collection inspired by Frank Stella) to downright glamorous (Lanvin’s pendulous gold drop earrings).

The trend played off the clean, architectural lines sent out on runway after runway, including the major tailoring moment. Plus, all the focus on hard, sculptural metals offered a chic counterpoint to the swaddling, earthy knits and padded and puffy volumes.

Prefer the maximalist route to minimalism? You can pile on the pieces like the models at Saint Laurent—styled in body-skimming dresses, great leather jackets, and cocooning coats, they channeled a sci-fi Nancy Cunard and stacked the cool cuffs high.

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Italian-made sterling silver Cleopatra necklace; $370; Royal Chain; 800-622-0960; royalchain.com

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PinkDiamond
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